# 10 Gorgeous DIY Infinity Tables You Will Want To Build Right Away

## 10 Gorgeous DIY Infinity Tables You Will Want To Build Right Away

Have you seen an infinity table? I hadn’t until recently. I don’t know how I have missed these things but let me tell you, they are amazing. They have such depth – quite literally.

If you have ever seen one – or even if you haven’t – you’re going to love the list of 10 DIY infinity tables that I have for you. You can literally make your own infinity table! Of course, you can buy your own infinity table…if you want to spend several hundred dollars.

I’ll show you ways that you can make your own and in most cases, for much less than $100. Infinity tables are great for adding some interesting décor to your home. Whether you want them for the living room or as a bedroom side table, you’re going to love how easy they are to make. And, you really can put them anywhere. Many of these are coffee tables but you could easily adjust the height and make them more suitable for other purposes. And, if you really love building your own furniture, you should check out these 25 rustic shiplap décor and furniture ideas. There are so many wonderful projects in here – and many of them will match up perfectly with your new DIY infinity table. So, if you have ever really wanted an infinity table but thought that maybe they were a bit expensive, now is your chance to own one. You can make one yourself in less than a day in many cases, and these are the most wonderful conversation starters. I mean, they seem to go on forever! If you’re a fan of the 1970s then you are definitely going to love these tables. They’re so much fun and so easy to build. In some cases, you can just repurpose an existing table and give it an infinity table top. And if you need it, there is a great way to remove furniture polish buildup before you begin repurposing those old tables. 1. Simple DIY Infinity Coffee Table You make the infinity part of this table with running LED lights and it is a really simple build. You do need quite a few power tools and several different sizes of boards but the overall process is not at all difficult. This is a gorgeous coffee table when it is finished and it is sure to impress everyone in your living room – with its gorgeous infinity look and with your woodworking skills. Tutorial: woodworkjunkie 2. Upcycled Coffee Table Infinity Table You don’t have to build your DIY infinity table completely from scratch. You can simply upcycle another table and add the top to give it the infinity table look. This not only saves you time but it saves you money, since you won’t have to buy all of the wood and 2X4s to build the table top and the legs. You simply create the top by building up the top of your upcycled table to add the LED lights and mirrors. You have to love DIY furniture makeover projects. Tutorial: instructables 3. DIY Infinity Table With Storage Drawers This DIY coffee table has that great infinity table look and it has storage drawers, too. If you need that additional storage in the living room, this is a good one to build. It’s a pretty easy table to complete and won’t take you longer than a few days to finish. The storage drawers are a great touch and they don’t get in the way of the infinity effect at all. The estimated cost for this one is about$300, but you can cut that down a bit if you have a few supplies left over from other woodworking projects.

Tutorial: ana-white

4. Retro Hexagonal Infinity Table

This retro infinity table is in true hexagonal shape and it is amazing. You can use this as a side table or put it anywhere you want to spark conversation.

It will only take you a day to build and you will enjoy it for a lifetime. It is about \$100 or so to make this one, depending on how you build it and what specific materials you already have on hand.

The color and the shape are truly unique and give this one such a wonderful retro look.

Tutorial: familyhandyman

5. Easy Wooden Infinity Table

This particular infinity table was built by a student, so it should be pretty easy for you, especially if you have a few woodworking skills. This one is a bit shorter than others, and makes a wonderful coffee table.

Or, you could make it taller and have it as a side table or even a console table.

The process is the same, you need LED lights and mirrors to get the infinity effect and overall, this is one of the easiest DIY infinity tables that you could build.

Tutorial: viralnova

6. Easy DIY Mega Infinity Table

This is one of the easiest infinity tables to make and it is huge. This would be a great party table or you could narrow it down a bit and make it into a console table. Make it as tall or as short as you need – just adjust the leg height to however you need it to be. The process is about the same as others and this one will only take you a day to build and it’s the size of a door!

Tutorial: makezine

7. DIY Infinity Side Table

You can build an infinity table into any size or practically any shape that you want. Take this DIY infinity side table for instance.

This would be perfect for the living room and you could make two of them to have matching tables.

You’ll need a few 2X4s and 4X4s, as well as a mirror the size of your table, glass for the top, reflective film and a few strands of LED lights. Imagine this as a bedside table!

Tutorial: imgur

8. Upcycled Window Pane Infinity Table

You can use an upcycled window pane as the base for your infinity table and save a bundle of cash, not to mention a lot of time in the building process. This is a great project to add to those list of upcycled window projects and it’s really easy to do.

Once you have the infinity top built – from your window pane, a mirror and your LED lights, you just add legs or you could even use this one to just place on top of a regular table of the same size and save yourself from having to build the legs.

This is such a great project for repurposing old windows.

Tutorial: repair

9. DIY Infinity Sofa Table

I love the look of this DIY infinity table for behind the sofa. The narrow frame makes it perfect as a console table and the metal legs are so much easier and cheaper to attach than wooden legs.

Plus, this doubles as a game table or just a place to sit and talk. Just add a couple of bar stools behind it and you’re all set. This one is super easy to make and doesn’t take much time to complete.

Tutorial: awesomeinventionss

10. Upcycled Glass Top Infinity Table

Take an old glass top coffee table – one that has seen better days – and turn it into a new and exciting infinity table. If you have a glass top table to use, this project won’t cost you much to complete.

If you don’t have a glass top table, check your local yard sales and thrift stores. They’ll normally have them for just a few dollars each.

Then you just have to add the LED lights and mirrors and you have a coffee table that is sure to be a conversation starter.

Tutorial: imgur

Source: https://www.diyncrafts.com/35316/woodworking/10-gorgeous-diy-infinity-tables-will-want-build-right-away

## Top 10 MATLAB code practices that make me cry

I was chatting with the Application Support Engineers here at MathWorks about what kind of coding practices cause avoidable pain for MATLAB users.

Without further ado: The top ten and quick ways to not do them:

10.) Not using left hand zeros

Certain things must be learned the hard way. I learned this one bleary eyed evening as an undergraduate. Well into the night working on a MATLAB homework assignment that would “take ten minutes, fifteen if you type slow.” (yes, Dr. P, 13 years later I still remember that one! -smile-)

It is really easy to mistake a .5 for a 5. That is why I always use a left hand zero 0.5.

9.) Plotting enormous amounts of data

My computer monitor has 2.3 million pixels, total. If I try to plot datasets with huge amounts of data in them, they will very often just look a blob and slow the machine down in the process.

There is very often a better visualization available. Here is an example of changing the visualization to make it clearer and less taxing on memory.

8.) GUIs with garish color schemes

In an effort to emphasize certain buttons on their GUI, people will change the colors of them. Very quickly they end up with several different colored buttons, a non-standard background color, extra big buttons, etc…

Sticking with the default colors is a good move. Most professionally produced software sticks with the defaults, it ends up looking better.

7.) Using ans, or any other MATLAB function as a variable name or function.

When you do this, MATLAB will call whichever one is higher on the path. Some strange behavior can occur when you redefine a function that. Unfortunately, MATLAB does not catch you doing this for the most part.

I try to avoid using variables and function names that are common terms , mean, filter, etc… If there is any doubt, use the which command to find out if a function exists of a given name.

6.) Not using white space to good effect in code.

Even though you can put several commands on one line if separated by a semicolon, these lines can often be hard to notice. Not putting blank lines between sections of code can also make it harder to read.

White space is free, use it to make your code look good.

Variable names are often the only commenting that gets added to people’s code. Meaningful variable names are a great opportunity to make the meaning of your code more clear and to some degree, self-documenting.

Avoid using variable names temp, aaa, r247899921. These just do not convey as much information to people that have to read your code as flagPassedInspection, centroidX, fidCurrentFile.

4.) Hard coding data into the MATLAB code file

Some people to put some of their variables directly into the MATLAB code. That makes sense for small variables (I will let you define what small means for you). For instance, I would feel fine putting a 3×3 matrix into my code. I would think twice about a 10×10, and I would start using one of our file readers for a 100 x 100.

The worst instance I ever saw of this was some MATLAB code where the .M file was 4 GIG (not a mistake) long. All but a small amount of that was data written out in ASCII. This makes your code hard to read, maintain and understand.

3.) Exceptionally long files

Even if not hard coding data into a MATLAB code file, it is easy to just add on “just a few more lines of code” until you have thousands of lines of code in a single script. This makes your code hard to understand.

I try to use the rule that I should be able to see an entire script or function in one screen. This is not entirely practical, so I will at least break the code into logical sections that do fit on screen all at once.

2.) Globals

I have never seen MATLAB code where globals were the right thing to do. Exception: functions TIC and TOC use them quite nicely. Most of the time I have seen globals being used it was a situation where the code author did not understand scoping of variables. Rather than pass variables from one function to another, they were just being made global.

Why are people cautioned against using global variables? I will leave that to the consensus on Wikipedia.

1.) Eval

EVAL is right up there with globals. MATLAB user will often string together MATLAB commands to get sequential variable names s1, s2, s3… only to then have to use another EVAL statement to work with the sequential variable names! Very often, a cell array indexed with s{1}, s{2}, s{3}… would work much better.

I will also find that people use EVAL to get at certain fields in a structure (for example data.alpha) when they do not know at the time of writing the code what field they will want. Now the “.parens” notation makes that easier.

The other most common place to see people use EVAL when it is not needed is when they are trying to load a file or some other function that. Very often they are trying to EVAL a string “load filename.mat” not realizing that there is a functional form where you can use fileNameString = ‘filename.mat’; load(fileNameString)

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Source: https://blogs.mathworks.com/videos/2010/03/08/top-10-matlab-code-practices-that-make-me-cry/

## Create

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Have you ever seen those little desktop photo cubes that fold and unfold to reveal more and more pictures on each side? If you're not sure what I mean, check out the video below to see one in action.

Pretty cool, right? They fascinate kids and adults a (myself included), and make wonderful gifts for just about any occasion — birthdays, anniversaries, Mother's Day, and more — and are especially nice for people who are hard to shop for.

Besides that, they're just plain fun!

If you can't see the video, try viewing it directly on .

These photo cubes are not very difficult to make, as long as you know the steps to follow. The instructions I've found online are lacking a lot, so I've taken some common tips for making these and added a lot of extra hints and instructions to come up with the detailed guide below for making your own.

In case you want to work on this project away from your computer, I also created a PDF version of these Magic Folding Cube Instructions that you can download and print.

The first thing you'll need to build this photo cube is eight 1.5″ wooden blocks. Before you start, be sure to check the edges of your wood cubes and sand lightly, if needed (we using flexible sanding sponges) to get rid of any splinters.

You may also want to use markers or paint to color the edges of the blocks, because they may end up showing a bit in the finished project. If you choose to do this, use a color that is complementary to your photos or something neutral white or black.

Now this part is important — you're also going to need some really strong double-sided adhesive to attach your photos to the blocks. This adhesive will end up serving as hinges between blocks, too, so you need to choose it carefully. I highly recommend using sheets of what's often called “red liner tape”.

We actually sell the perfect double-sided tape sheets in our Amazon store. This stuff is made up of a thin sheet of plastic that's coated on both sides with a super-sticky adhesive. It's super sticky, VERY durable, and thick and flexible enough to make perfect hinges between your blocks that won't ever tear. You'll need two 8.

5″ x 11″ sheets of this tape to handle all ten of your photos.

You will need eight 3″x3″ pictures and two 3″x6″ pictures for this project. These photos should NOT be printed on typical photo paper, because photo paper is too thick to bend easily and won't work for this project.

Instead, you need to either have color copies made of your photos at the local copy shop, or print the pictures yourself on a thinner paper.

We highly recommend you choose a 24-lb, bright white paper that has built-in smudge resistance, such as HP's Bright White Inkjet Paper.

TIP: When you print your pictures, if they aren't coming out as bright or as you'd , try setting your printer options for photo/glossy paper, rather than ordinary paper. This little lie will cause your printer to push out a lot more ink and your photos will be much bolder, giving you much better results.

Once you've selected all your photos and printed them out on proper paper, go ahead and cut them to size, but take note — cut each picture just a bit larger (about 1/16″ to 1/8″ of an inch) than the specified measurement.

This extra little bit will help later when your photos have to span the gaps between the blocks. (Trust me, it'll make sense when you get to that point.

) If the pieces end up too big, you can always trim them later with a utility knife or scissors – better safe than sorry!

Now that your photos are printed and cut to size, you will need to back them with the double-sided tape. Peel one side of the backing off and arrange your photos on the sticky part you exposed, ensuring that the back of each photo is completely covered in adhesive. Trim the photos again to size. Don't peel off the other backing layer yet!

Now let's take a look at the layout we're aiming for with these photos. They are each going to need to be cut in different ways, depending on their size. This diagram shows how each of the 10 photos will need to be cut.

Arrange your printed (and tape-backed) photos as indicated in the diagram. Then use a paper trimmer or scissors to cut each photo into squares/rectangles as indicated in the picture. For example, cut picture #1 into four squares, #2 into two rectangles, etc. Take care and keep track of the photos after you're cut them, so they don't get mixed up!

TIP: Since your photos are actually a little larger than the finished size, cut them from the center, rather than just measuring 1.5″ from one side. This will keep the extra paper on all sides, instead of just one or two.

In the assembly steps to follow, you're going to need a spacer to help keep the blocks lined up right so the hinges work the best. Since you have lots of scraps of paper and tape leftover from prepping the photos, this is the perfect time to make that spacer.

Start with three pieces of the double-sided tape sheets that are about 3″ long and 1/2″ wide. Peel the backing off of each piece and stick the three of them together. Then cover the remaining two sticky sides with scraps of the paper you printed the photos on.

Trim the whole thing if needed to get rid of overhanging edges. What you're created is a spacer that's just a bit thicker that two layers of photos will be on your cubes. Just hang on to this for now. You'll need it when we begin assembly.

With your photos all cut into the right pieces, you're finally ready to start assembling the cube!

Start by lining 4 wooden blocks up into a square on the table. Then take the four squares of photo #1 and stick each one to one of the cubes, as seen in the diagram below.

Then take the other four wooden blocks and line them up into a square, to get ready to apply photo #2. You're going to want to put one rectangle across the top two blocks and then another across the bottom, but wait! We need our spacer! Let's think about this for a minute…

later on, when our blocks are all covered in photos, they're going to be a little thicker than they are now, right? If we stick a photo across two blocks without accounting for that space first, then later there won't be room for the photos when we add them.

So slide your spacer strip between the blocks, so that it sticks out where the arrows are in the diagram below.

Then stick the two rectangles of photo #2 to the blocks as shown.

As you try to make your photo reach across the two blocks AND the space, you'll realize why I suggested cutting the photos a tiny bit larger than 3 inches. That extra size will really come in handy for spans this!

Now turn the set of four blocks with photo #1 on them over, this:

Take the four blocks with photo #2 on them and place them on top of the four you just flipped, this:

Ok, time for our first tricky fold. Put your hands on the left and right side of your cube, grabbing 4 blocks with each. Lift the sides up so that the top (photo #2) folds in on itself, as seen below, with the pivot being the red line in the diagram. The result will be all eight blocks laying in a rectangle.

Apply the pieces of photo #3 to the tops of the eight blocks, taking care to use the spacer whenever covering a span of two blocks, as indicated with arrows below:

Now fold the top four blocks down and the bottom four blocks up, with the pivot on the red line in the diagram. Your new photo #3 that you just attached will fold in on itself and become hidden inside. You'll end up with eight blocks showing in a rectangle.

Apply the pieces of photo #4 to the tops of the eight blocks, taking care to use the spacer whenever covering a span of two blocks, as indicated with arrows below:

Now fold the two leftmost blocks and two rightmost blocks up towards the center, pivoting on the red lines in the diagram. Your new photo #4 that you just attached will become hidden inside. You'll end up with a cube shape.

Apply the pieces of photo #5 to the tops of the four blocks. You do NOT need the spacer anymore because the blocks underneath already have photos attached to them.

Rotate the entire cube to the left, so that photo #5 moves from the top side to the left side. You will expose a new surface with no photo on it.

Apply the pieces of photo #6 to the tops of the four blocks. Again, you no longer need the spacer strip.

Rotate the entire cube to the left, so that photo #6 moves from the top side to the left side (and #5 is now face-down on the table). You will expose a new surface with no photo on it.

Apply the pieces of photo #7 to the tops of the four blocks. Again, you no longer need the spacer strip.

Rotate the entire cube to the left, so that photo #7 moves from the top side to the left side (and #6 is now face-down on the table and #5 is now on the right). You will expose a new surface with no photo on it.

Apply the pieces of photo #8 to the tops of the four blocks. Again, you no longer need the spacer strip.

Rotate the entire cube to the left, so that photo #8 moves from the top side to the left side. You will now have photo #5 showing on top.

Now rotate again, this time towards you, so that #5 becomes the side closest to you and the top has no photos on it.

Apply the pieces of photo #9 to the tops of the four blocks. Again, you no longer need the spacer strip.

Rotate the entire cube towards you, so that photo #9 moves from the top side to the side closest to you. You will now have photo #7 showing on top. Now rotate again, towards you, so that #7 becomes the side closest to you and the top has no photos on it.

Apply the pieces of photo #10 to the tops of the four blocks. Again, you no longer need the spacer strip.

That's it! You're done! To view all the photos, just fold and unfold the cube, revealing a new side with every twist. You can display the cube with any photo showing that you want.

Now you have a custom photo cube that makes a great toy, gift, or even unique commemorative “album”. I made my mother a photo cube last year on Mother's Day, with pictures of all of her kids and grandkids.

Jo made one for her sister-in-law featuring pictures of the family dog. Because they will have 12 sides, you can also make a desk calendar them.

Now that I think about it, they would even make a lovely, unique bridesmaid gift if made with pictures of the bride and bridesmaid together!

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Source: https://www.chicaandjo.com/magic-folding-wooden-photo-cubes/

## How to Use the Golden Ratio to Create Gorgeous Graphic Designs

Source: https://www.companyfolders.com/blog/golden-ratio-design-examples

## A Primer on Bézier Curves

If you have JavaScript disabled, you'll have to enable it, as this book heavily relies on JS rendering, both for the base content (it's been written as a React application) and all the interactive graphics, which rely on JS not just for the user interaction but also for the live-drawing (none of the graphics in this book are flat images, they're all live-rendered).

In order to draw things in 2D, we usually rely on lines, which typically get classified into two categories: straight lines, and curves. The first of these are as easy to draw as they are easy to make a computer draw. Give a computer the first and last point in the line, and BAM! straight line. No questions asked.

Curves, however, are a much bigger problem. While we can draw curves with ridiculous ease freehand, computers are a bit handicapped in that they can't draw curves unless there is a mathematical function that describes how it should be drawn.

In fact, they even need this for straight lines, but the function is ridiculously easy, so we tend to ignore that as far as computers are concerned, all lines are “functions”, regardless of whether they're straight or curves.

However, that does mean that we need to come up with fast-to-compute functions that lead to nice looking curves on a computer.

There's a number of these, and in this article we'll focus on a particular function that has received quite a bit of attention, and is used in pretty much anything that can draw curves: “Bézier” curves

They're named after Pierre Bézier, who is principally responsible for getting them known to the world as a curve well-suited for design work (working for Renault and publishing his investigations in 1962), although he was not the first, or only one, to “invent” these type of curves.

One might be tempted to say that the mathematician Paul de Casteljau was first, investigating the nature of these curves in 1959 while working at Citroën, coming up with a really elegant way of figuring out how to draw them.

However, de Casteljau did not publish his work, making the question “who was first” hard to answer in any absolute sense.

Or is it? Bézier curves are, at their core, “Bernstein polynomials”, a family of mathematical functions investigated by Sergei Natanovich Bernstein, with publications on them at least as far back as 1912.

Anyway, that's mostly trivia, what you are more ly to care about is that these curves are handy: you can link up multiple Bézier curves so that the combination looks a single curve. If you've ever drawn Photoshop “paths” or worked with vector drawing programs Flash, Illustrator or nkscape, those curves you've been drawing are Bézier curves.

So, what if you need to program them yourself? What are the pitfalls? How do you draw them? What are the bounding boxes, how do you determine intersections, how can you extrude a curve, in short: how do you do everything that you might want when you do with these curves? That's what this page is for. Prepare to be mathed!

If you enjoyed this book enough to print it out, you might be wondering if there is some way to give something back. To answer that question: you can always buy me a coffee, however-much a coffee is where you live, or if you want to pay a fair price for this book, you can buy me a really expensive coffee =)

This book has grown over the years from a short primer to an 85+ print-page-equivalent ebook on the subject of Bézier curves, and a lot of coffee went into the making of it.

I don't regret a minute I spent on writing it, but I can always do with some more coffee to keep on writing! Please visit https://pomax.github.

io/bezierinfo and click on the link in the online preface to donate some coffee money.

—Pomax (or in the tweetworld, @TheRealPomax)

This page uses interactive examples, relying heavily on Bezier.js, as well as “real” maths (in LaTeX form) which is typeset using the most excellent MathJax library.

The page is generated offline as a React application, using Webpack, which has made adding “view source” options considerably more challenging.

I'm still trying to figure out how to add them back in, but it didn't feel it should hold up deploying this update compared to the previous years' version.

### This book is open source

This book is an open source software project, and lives on two github repositorites. The first is https://github.com/pomax/bezierinfo and is the purely-for-presentation version you are viewing right now.

The other repository is https://github.com/pomax/BezierInfo-2, which is the development version, housing all the html, javascript, and css.

You can fork either of these, and pretty much do with them as you please, except for passing it off as your own work wholesale, of course =)

### How complicated is the maths going to be?

Most of the mathematics in this Primer are early high school maths. If you understand basic arithmetic, and you know how to read English, you should be able to get by just fine.

There will at times be far more complicated maths, but if you don't feel digesting them, you can safely skip over them by either skipping over the “detail boxes” in section or by just jumping to the end of a section with maths that looks too involving.

The end of sections typically simply list the conclusions so you can just work with those values directly.

If you have suggestions for new sections, hit up the Github issue tracker (also reachable from the repo linked to in the upper right).

If you have questions about the material, there's currently no comment section while I'm doing the rewrite, but you can use the issue tracker for that as well.

Once the rewrite is done, I'll add a general comment section back in, and maybe a more topical “select this section of text and hit the 'question' button to ask a question about it” system. We'll see.

Source: https://pomax.github.io/bezierinfo/